Tog Day Afternoon:
Tautog, or blackfish as it is more widely known, has not always been a considered a table worthy fish, despite the popular Philadelphia eponymous eatery. During the mid 70’s a transition was made in the world of gastronomy which led to the humble tog’s place on menus all over. I consider tog a special fish for two reasons; one being that is one of the few fish where males and females are colored distinctly different. This is important because as responsible spearfishermen/women we try not to take the larger egg laden females whose spawn tend to have a much greater chance of survival. Males of this species have white patches on their jaws and cheeks, females are a mottled color all over. Another unique feature of the tautog is that its meat will benefit from rigor mortis, which translates simply into a textural change in the meat from only a few hours on ice or in the fridge. Although it’s a good idea to gut the fish, drain the blood and remove the skin as the mucus it secretes can sometimes taint the flavor of the meat if left on too long.
Cooking your Catch:
Blackfish au Beurre Blanc with Prosciutto wrapped Asparagus
Fresh Tog fillets
Flour
Salt/Pepper
Asparagus
Prosciutto di Parma (Use the Canadian stuff and I will come find you)
Beurre Blanc
3 sticks (12 oz) chilled butter cut into 24 pieces
1 medium sized shallot (about 1-1½ Tbs)
¼ Cup dry white wine (I use Vermouth and Fresh Lemon Juice)
¼ Cup White Wine Vinegar
¼ Tbs Salt
1/8 Tbs White Pepper (black is fine it just depends on how snooty your guests are)
This particular fish, with whom I’ve had a little history, deserved, in my mind anyway, a special uber-rich preparation, hence the artery clogging sauce choice. Togs can be skinned and prepared whole but as this monster will not fit under my broiler I’ve opted to portion out the fillets. I feel that there is a marked difference in flavor and texture between meat toward the head and the collar, which despite the name is the meat toward the tail. Clean the fillets and dry them immediately, from there a simple dredging in flour followed by some sea salt and freshly cracked pepper is all the seasoning that is required.
The asparagus should be firm and the spears bright green. When storing asparagus stand the trimmed bottoms in a flat bottomed bowl with inch or so of cold water and keep refrigerated. Using a very sharp paring knife gently peel the stalks. Wrapping in Prosciutto is fairly straight forward just be sure to wrap them tightly. Leave the tops and a little of the bottom section exposed to facilitate easier flipping without damaging the wrap. Refrigerate for about twenty minutes or untilled chilled.
Note: Pancetta will work just as well and actually tends to crisp up nicer than Prosciutto
On browning fish… Use Butter! Use Stainless Steel! (If you don’t like butter, and by that I mean you hate America and all things good and righteous, stop reading now and go make yourself a salad commie!) Melt your butter over medium heat; wait for the foaming to cease then add the fillets, do not move them around or fidget with them let the glorious butter do its thing. Flip once, that’s it.
The asparagus will only take about 5 minutes total and can be grilled out of doors or on a grill pan. You can use some oil, not much, but flip constantly. Some of you budding Escoffiers may say to blanch briefly and refresh, you can, but its not necessary prior to them being wrapped.
Beurre Blanc, if I am not mistaken originated in Nantes, and is one of the richest sauces in the French repertoire and complements sautéed or broiled fish wonderfully; it’s also fabulous on plain asparagus for those of you purists who feel I’m gilding the lily with cured meats. Timing is EVERYTHING when it comes to preparing a butter enrichment like this, have your indgredients and tools range side and ready to rock. First reduce the wine, vinegar, shallots (or green onions now that I think about it) salt and pepper in an enameled saucepan until your left with a very pungent single tablespoon of liquid. Remove from heat and very carefully add the butter one piece at a time whipping each piece into the liquid COMPLETELY before adding the next. I tend to whip with my right hand and squeeze tightly the next piece of butter in my left allowing the dripping butter (if any) to fall into the pan. The idea behind an enrichment such as this is to not allow the butter to separate under the heat, if it does pour what sauce you have made very slowly into a chilled metal bowl and whip very quickly. The sauce will become oily if broken and a greasy slick will appear on the surface. The trick is as one might expect is to not let this happen, again by whisking in each piece completely before adding the next. The sauce, when finished mounting, will take on an ivory color and the consistency of a light hollandaise (a sauce equally tasty on asparagus and quite lovely on cold boiled fish)
Presentation to me is simple. Asparagus down first, then fillets, then sauce. I tend not to get too crazy with this as fish and vegetables should look and taste like fish and vegetables. Keep in mind that beurre blanc cannot be reheated and must be kept tepid lest it break. It can be refrigerated though and you’ll have yourself some delightful shallot butter for toast or later enrichment projects. Garnish with lemon zest or chopped parsley and bon appetite!
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